Radio Removal

NOTE DISCLAIMER:  I will not accept liability for anyone's removal attempts.  This information is posted for informational purposes only.  Don't try this without proper training.  Any removal attempts are at your own risk.  I will not be financially liable to any damage or expenses you may incur in trying to remove your radio.  

Here's some pictures and comments on the radio removal procedure....

If your looking to remove the radio from a Nissan Quest, please take a look at:
http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/quest_2002_removal (or click here)

For the Ford owners, read on...

Figure 1 - A pair of fence pliers works good to cut a piece of clothes hanger for bending into shape to be used as a tool to remove the radio.  Shown above is the fence pliers and a piece of clothes hanger that has been shaped into a U-shape and I have added black tape at 1 1/4 inches from the ends to mark about the maximum this needs to be inserted into the holes of the radio to remove it.  You will need two of these U-shaped pieces to remove the radio (only one is shown in the pictures).  A thicker clothes hanger works best.

Figure 2 - More detail of figure one.

Figure 3 - The radio to be repaired.  Mine was built in Feb. 2000 and had a part number on it of YL2F-18C868-CA...I'm guessing it was a part number.  There was also markings on it that read FH-2076ZF XH/UC...whatever this was for.

Figure 4 - A view of the retaining clips that hold the radio in place in the dash...sorry, I'm not a professional photographer and I don't have a good digital camera...as is starting to become obvious in these pictures.

Figure 4B - Another view of the retaining clips from the side of the radio.

Figure 5 - Another view of the retaining clips from the top of the radio.

Figure 6

Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 6-8 - Insert the clothes hanger tools (one tool in on each side of the radio) in the holes on the front faceplate.  It works best by angling the hangers toward the center of the radio.  Do not insert more than 1 1/4 inches.  Once inserted, apply a pressure away from the center of the radio (push towards the outsides of the radio) and then begin to pull the radio out of the dash...two hands are required for this and three would be better in some cases).

Figure 8.1 More Detailed Photos the Locking Mechanism on the side of the radio

Figure 8.1 shows a side view of the radio with the start of inserting the DIN tools...the DIN tools are not inserted all the way, just starting to penetrate the insertion holes (not engaged with the locking mechanism yet).

NOTE - The Nissan Minivan does not have the DIN tool type of installment...see details on removing that radio at www.shareamemory.com/radio/quest_2002_removal/index.htm

Figure 8.2 Series of 3 Photos of the Locking Mechanism

1. Looking down on the radio onto the locking tab.

2. DIN tool inserted (about 1 1/4" into the insertion hole).

The orange arrow shows how to pivot the U shaped DIN tools to pivot about the insertion hole to move the locking tabs along side of the radio in towards the body of the radio, releasing the locking mechanism from holding the radio in the hole of the dash.

3. DIN tool with pressure applied, moving the locking tabs in towards the body of the radio chassis.

RADIO REMOVAL TOOL addendum:
I had several people tell me about the radio removal tool that can be purchased at various automotive stores and places like Wal-Mart.  In an effort to educate the readers of this web site, I went out and purchased a set of these tools (see Figure 8A below)...what did I think?

Figure 8A - Store Bought Din Radio Removal Tool Compared to Self-made from Hangers

Well, I purchased the set shown above at Wal-Mart for about $3.97.  They are nicely formed compared to my self-made clothes hanger ones.  When properly used, these DIN connectors can be useful in getting the radio out.  If you opt for the DIN removal tools, you simply insert them into the holes of the radio until you feel a firm click (should be about 1 1'4" into the holes).  Once inserted, you apply the outward pressure and pull at the same time to get the radio to slide out. 

It's not too easy either way, homemade tools or DIN removal tools, to get these radios to slide out of their mounting.  Some may say the DIN removal tool is easier, overall  though, three hands still work best (see comments above).

Figure 8B

Figure 8B shows the three connectors and the antennae coax connection that needs to be removed.  NOTE: You may only have TWO Connectors if your vehicle doesn't have a powered subwoofer...so don't be alarmed of you only have two plus the antennae.  The order in which I remove these are numbered...first the antennae coax is disconnected, followed by the three connectors (installation is the reverse process...4, 3,2,1).  Note that the connectors have tabs on them which need to be depressed to be able to pull the connector out of the radio.

You should now have your radio out of the dash...you can move on to the Fix!

If you are just using this site for the information to remove your radio and have found this information useful, then please consider giving a contribution to the effort and the time taken from my kids to get these directions together (and to help defray the hosting fees incurred to keep this information posted).  PayPal makes it easy to contribute $3 or whatever you feel is appropriate:

Thanks!

D. Harrison

HERE ARE THE AVAILABLE FIXES FOR THE RADIO SHOWN ABOVE IN FIGURE 3 (and those pictured below):

Click one of the above Icons to Purchase the Radio Repair Access
(for Blank Display or Volume Control Repair Instructions)
$19.99

CD EJECT ERROR ACCESS (Ford/Nissan)

Click one of the above Icons to Purchase the CD Eject Error Access
(For CD Eject Error Repair Instructions - separate cost from the display and volume control repair listed above)
$19.99

COMBO REPAIR - DISPLAY/VOLUME CONTROL/CD EJECT ERROR ACCESS
(Ford/Nissan)

Click one of the above Icons to Purchase the
Combo Display/Volume/CD Eject Error Access
$29.99

"Save My Sanity" Repair Program

The Save My Sanity REPAIR PROGRAM has you ship your power supply board in for the repair and modifications to eliminate the blank display problem. You send your power supply board in for the repairs and all the modifications to your board to repair you board, even if you have tried the repairs yourself. The cost is $89.99.  If I cannot fix your board, it will be returned without a charge and your payment will be returned. 

Upon receipt of payment, I will send you specific, step by step picture-detailed instructions on how to remove the power board from the radio...it's not too hard. If you can get the radio out of the dash (the harder part of the task...which directions are provided free on this web site...click here) , you can get the power supply board out of the radio. If once you receive the instructions you are unable to get the radio out or you think it's too much trouble, let me know and I can refund your payment.

What this new program will do for you is:

*You don't have to do the detailed soldering and trouble shooting.

*You get a known working board that has all the modifications to it so that you won't experience this again

*If the board cannot be fixed, it will be returned without cost to you.

*You don't have to go without your radio (if you were going to ship it off for repairs). You will still be able to listen to your radio, you just won't have a display (but then again, you didn't have a display anyway).

Before going this route, please be sure that you are comfortable at the dis-assembly and re-assembly that is required to replace the board...it basically requires removing three screws, popping off the front display panel (may require a small screw driver to assist), popping off the top metal panel of the radio, then twisting two metal tabs with a needle nose pliers. If you are okay with that (I will send the specific instructions including pictures to replace the board), then you are set to proceed with the swap program.

This replacement board is for a MACH radio (also used in various Ford vehicles and Nissan Quest)...the part number on the radio should be something like "XXXX-18C868-XX" where the X's can be any type of combination...the "18C868" should be there on this type of radio.  You may want to verify this.

Click the above Icon to Purchase the "Save My Sanity" Repair Program
using PayPal for $89.99.

"Save My Sanity" Repair Program

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